Visit to “Le Jardin d’Agronomie Tropical de Paris” (The Paris Human Zoo)
Address: 45 bis Avenue de la Belle Gabrielle, 75012
Fee: Free – Public Space
The day was gray and grim outside. It rained off and on with maybe two instances where we received patches of sunlight through the dark clouds. The weather matched the environment and the heavy atmosphere that hung over Le Jardin d’Agronomie.
I don’t remember how the topic came up or how we re-discovered the so called “human zoo of Paris“, possibly by a simple image that my roommate Angela and I saw while browsing images online.
But moments after seeing images of native groups from countries colonized by the French, grouped in pens like animals in a zoo- a literal human zoo, and the fact that the remnants of this zoo remained, we had to go. We had to see with our own eyes the living history which the city officials have continuously tried to sweep under the carpet.
The trip took a little less than an hour to the outskirts of the 12th arrondissement near Bois de Vincennes to an area called Nogent-sur Marne.
Waiting at Nation for the RER A
History and Present:
Le Jardin d’Agronomie Tropical (JAT) was created in 1899, But has since then been occupied by the CIRAD (Centre de Coopération Internationale en Recherche Agronomique pour le Développement). In 2003 it was bought by the city of Paris and chosen as the place for the erection of the monuments in memory of the soldiers of the colonies, who died for France during the First World War.
On Scene:
Arriving to the park, there stood a short knee high, green gate. As we entered the gate there was only a large open space with the old original “porte chinoise” – chinese door – from the colonial exposition of 1906 at Le Grand Palais – moved to the JAT in 1907.
At station 1, the one and only mention of the “human zoo” was as such, “1899 – … Des juillet 1899 la grande serre est edifiée. Elle accueille le premiers SUJETS d’observation trois mois plus tard.” Nothing more…
Objective of the Colonial Exposition:
The Colonial Exposition of 1907 was made up of 5 villages (Indochina, Madagascar, Congo, Sudan, Tunisia, Morocco), countries/regions that had been colonized as part of the French Empire. And to complete the village, those in charge of the exposition supposedly contracted and paid locals from each country/region to come to France and live in these villages (this however, I believe to be questionable, since there is very little information about the people brought to the various expositions, how they came to Europe, their care, their pay, etc. and well frankly, history in general – the Western world’s precolonial/colonial views of natives of the countries in which they colonized). Well, once there, it is undeniable that most, if not all, of these people were doing the “show” and being denied their simple human dignity. Visitors from near and far, came to see with their own eyes, the natives of the colonies and witness religious rites, dances, sports, and “everyday life”.
I have read many texts that repeatedly explain that the objective of the Colonial Exposition was to bring the world to the Parisian Public. But, still very few that are explicit with its history, of which express even my own sentiments, that scientists designed the exposition to (oui) show how natives in the colonies lived, but at the same time, it gave white Europeans the opportunity to see and affirm the superiority of the white race. There is so much complexity to the history of colonialism and all the issues that were a product of it. Not to mention the question of race and racism is a taboo subject in France…If I continue on that route, this will turn into a dissertation…
Side note-but still relevant: Remember Sarah Bartmaan a.k.a Hottentot Venus? A woman from the Khoikhoi tribe of South Africa, who was featured in European freak shows, most famous for her large buttocks (which was supposedly the cause of a condition called steatopygia – this is also a topic of debate, since scientists (even the oxford dictionary) name this as a condition related to mainly black women of certain African descent or African regions). Sarah Bartmaan ended up in Paris, where she died at 26 years old, and her remains – brain, reproductive organs, skeleton, and a plaster of her body- were placed on display in the Musée de l’Homme until 1974. 1974!!!! Eventually her remains were sent back to South Africa by the request of Nelson Mandela. But I digress, let me get back on topic and add, Europe was not the only place to have “human zoos” – lest we forget Ota Benga; an Mbuti pygmy from the Congo, who was known for being featured in an anthropology exhibit at the Louisiana Purchase Exposition in St. Louis, Missouri, USA in 1904, and then a human zoo exhibit in 1906 at the Bronx Zoo – you can also spot him in the film The Curious Case of Benjamin Button , portrayed by actor Rampai Mohadi…research them – interesting stories, and defiant moments in the studies of the social sciences, race relations, and black history).
Overall, JAT is a beautiful public space. Its grounds are kept in top condition, and is definitely worth the visit. The monuments, architecture and restoration of some of the buildings are a site to see. But JAT hides some not so secret skeletons in its closet. The remnants of the exposition are visible, but there is no transparency when it comes to the full story of the parks previous use. I wonder, why keep these old villages there, but not reveal the truth in its entirety? Who exactly were these people who lived here, and did they remain there year round or just from open to close and had other accommodations? Were they contracted and paid or taken from their homelands? How was their quality of life in Paris, compared to the countries from which they came? Did many return home? (Some of which did not, such as the case of the three Galibi Indians from French Guiana who died in 1892 because of the Paris climate at the Jardin d’Acclimatation – another “human zoo” location.) It’s quite an interesting topic, which has not been fully researched in its various aspects and I believe is definitely worth further regard.
(all photos taken, and rights owned by Janae Lynch – Please do not replicate or use for personal use- if needed please inquire)
AFROPOLOGIE 